LAURA THEISS – AUTUMN/WINTER 2012
In her previous collections knitwear designer Laura Theiss explored the world of samurai girls and aliens. With her new designs Theiss pushes herself “to infinity and beyond”.
Moving from early sci-fi films, the space, the cosmos, maps of the moon, lunar rocks and titanium-rich minerals, Theiss embraced our fascination with the celestial world to create a collection that combines heritage, crafts and artisanship with technology and focus on powerful body scale patterns, exploring rich textural aspects.
Traditional crocheting is manipulated via computer to create digital patterns programmed by the designer; yarns and cables intertwine in visually striking mirroring effects; weights and textures contrast and combine, while the simplicity of nature-inspired details such as leaf-like patterns is transformed through computer wizardry giving garments the intricate aspect and consistency of lunar rock formations.
Theiss used a palette of atmospheric shades - dark blue, titanium grey, metallic glints with a splash of multicoloured nuances - to invoke the contemplative mysteries of the cosmos and digitise her modern fantasy tale.
To complete the outfits Theiss also designed crocheted headdresses and masks, almost a hint at cyberbodies, robots and, above all, gynoids à la Rachael and Zhora in Ridley Scott’s Blade Runner.
The designer also referenced body mutations through new constructions, materials, forms and concepts, printing some of her most iconic crocheted pieces on chiffon and using the fabric for dresses characterised by a retro eclecticism, but still bearing all the sculptural power of her merino wool crocheted or knitted pieces.
Echoing couture designs made with newly invented technology, Theiss's collection represents an innnovative line of statement of shapes and proportions.
Photographer: Oggy Yordanov
Creative Direction and Styling: Kabir
Model: Nastya P@Models1
Hair: John Mullan
Nails: Joanna Webb
Makeup: Philipp Ueberfellner